Along for the ride: Snowcoach tours offer wintry look at Yellowstone Park
By BEN PIERCE Chronicle Outdoors
WEST YELLOWSTONE — Each morning through the winter this gateway town on the west edge of Yellowstone National Park rumbles to life just after dawn. The sound of motors breaks the morning silence as visitors climb aboard snowmobiles and into snowcoaches to explore the park.
On Saturday morning in sub-zero temperatures I boarded a snowcoach with a group of visitors to tour the park. Our guide for the day was Brad Barth of Yellowstone Vacations and we were headed to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
In recent years, snowcoach travel in the park has increased while snowmobile use has waned. That transition has had an affect on local economies, park wildlife and the environment.
But it hasn’t changed interest in Yellowstone.
“It is so easy to buy into the controversy when the important thing is that people are here to visit Yellowstone,” said Randy Roberson, owner of Yellowstone Vacations, which leads snowmobile and snowcoach tours into the park. “Ultimately (snowmobiles and snowcoaches) are a mode of transportation. If you take away the recreational snowmobile rider, then you have the net visitor left and they choose either snowmobiles or snowcoaches. The majority of our guests prefer the snowcoaches.”
Our snowcoach passed through the West Entrance of Yellowstone Park around 9 a.m. Within an hour we had spotted a pair of gray wolves from the Gibbon Pack, trumpeter swans, several elk and a bald eagle.
“I like the park anytime, but it is pretty incredible this time of year,” said Rod Jude of Gallatin Gateway. “You are seeing the wildlife and scenery in a winter setting as opposed to the summer or spring.”
In 2003, the National Park Service changed the regulations governing snowmobile use in Yellowstone. The new guidelines required emissions and noise standards and that all snowmobilers entering the park be accompanied by a professional guide working for one of the park’s accredited concessionaries.
Since those regulations went into effect, West Yellowstone and other gateway communities around the park have experienced a dramatic change in winter tourism. That has meant a shift from snowmobiles to snowcoaches as the preferred means of winter travel within the park for many visitors.
“I think a lot of the folks that were entering the park on snowmobile were recreational snowmobile users,” Roberson said. “When the National Park Service required a guide, they chose not to go in. Some of those folks are going in on snowcoaches now.”
Jude is on of those folks. He’s been visiting Yellowstone for more than 15 years via snowmobile and snowcoach. He said he sees the move to snowcoaches as a positive development for West Yellowstone and the park.
“I think they are moving in the right direction,” Jude said. “Rather than focusing on driving, you can concentrate on what’s outside the widow — the wildlife and the scenery — which is what you are here for in the first place.
“When you are on a snowmobile, you have to concentrate on the road and driving, plus you are colder and you have to have a snowmobile suit on. The snowcoach is a wonderful way to see the park, because you are comfortable.”
A snowcoach is akin to a tour bus, but they are designed to operate over snow and ice. They employ tracks rather than tires allowing them improved traction on the variable conditions found in the park during the winter season. Many snowcoaches used in the park today fit between 10 and 20 passengers and are operated by a driver that also acts as a tour guide.
Roberson said that the reason visitors come to Yellowstone has changed little over the years, but that updated park policies and people’s expectations for their experience in the park have changed.
“(Park visitors) want to see Yellowstone’s geysers, wildlife and magnificent scenery,” he said on Tuesday. “On the other hand, several major trends have been dramatically changing the face of winter tourism in Yellowstone.”
Roberson said that visitors increasingly want more than simple access — they want to learn about what they are seeing and experiencing within the park and to be assured “that the way they are visiting is helping protect fragile resources for other visitors, and for their children and grandchildren.”
Guides offer a level of park interpretation unique to the snowcoach experience. As we passed along the Gibbon River, Barth pointed out wolves from the Gibbon Pack, a red fox near Madison Junction and numerous other wildlife species and points of interest.
“I think having the guide along is a big benefit,” Jude said. “They can play a fantastic role as your resident naturalist on board.”
Near the Brink of the Upper Falls, Barth pulled the snowcoach to the side of the road. The group disembarked for a quick cross-country ski and snowshoe excursion along the river.
Dropping through the forest to the falls and crossing over Chittenden Bridge offers a chance to get the blood flowing and to witness the Yellowstone River up close.
“In West Yellowstone, more visitors are arriving with skis and snowshoes,” Roberson said. “They’re seeking a different, active park experience.”
Roberson believes the uptick in visitors seeking exercise as part of their experience in the park can be seen through the lens of demographics. He said that as the baby boom generation enters their 50s and 60s, exercise has become a quality of life issue.
“More of these visitors want to be physically active and interact with the outdoors,” he said.
The final trend Roberson said is affecting winter tourism is the changing climate. He said that over the past decade inadequate snowfall has limited snowmobile travel. The park opens for winter travel on Dec. 15, but drier, warmer trends have put a damper on earlyseason entry.
Roberson said many visitors to West Yellowstone book their vacations far in advance. Snowcoaches offer an advantage over snowmobiles in that their rubber tracks are able to travel over pavement even when snowfall is light. That offers a degree of assurance for vacationers.
Mark Pearson, National Parks program director for Greater Yellowstone Coalition, said West Yellowstone has adapted to change.
“I think the move toward snowcoaches is being adopted here in West Yellowstone,” he said. “Our perspective is that snowcoaches are really the future. You can get a lot more people in the park with fewer machines … and they provide for universal accessibility.”
According to the park’s Web site, 7,138 visitors entered the park on snowmobiles from West Yellowstone in 2009. In 2010, that figure had dropped to 6,786 visitors. In contrast, snowcoach visitation has risen by 119 over the same period.
But regardless of numbers, Roberson said the public’s fascination with Yellowstone is the driving factor for visitation.
And that’s unlikely to change.
“People are so excited to learn about the park,” he said. “People are here because they love Yellowstone.”
WEST YELLOWSTONE — Each morning through the winter this gateway town on the west edge of Yellowstone National Park rumbles to life just after dawn. The sound of motors breaks the morning silence as visitors climb aboard snowmobiles and into snowcoaches to explore the park. On Saturday morning in sub-zero temperatures I boarded a snowcoach with a group of visitors to tour the park. Our guide for the day was Brad Barth of Yellowstone Vacations and we were headed to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. In recent years, snowcoach travel in the park has increased while snowmobile use has waned. That transition has had an affect on local economies, park wildlife and the environment. But it hasn’t changed interest in Yellowstone. “It is so easy to buy into the controversy when the important thing is that people are here to visit Yellowstone,” said Randy Roberson, owner of Yellowstone Vacations, which leads snowmobile and snowcoach tours into the park. “Ultimately (snowmobiles and snowcoaches) are a mode of transportation. If you take away the recreational snowmobile rider, then you have the net visitor left and they choose either snowmobiles or snowcoaches. The majority of our guests prefer the snowcoaches.” Our snowcoach passed through the West Entrance of Yellowstone Park around 9 a.m. Within an hour we had spotted a pair of gray wolves from the Gibbon Pack, trumpeter swans, several elk and a bald eagle. “I like the park anytime, but it is pretty incredible this time of year,” said Rod Jude of Gallatin Gateway. “You are seeing the wildlife and scenery in a winter setting as opposed to the summer or spring.” In 2003, the National Park Service changed the regulations governing snowmobile use in Yellowstone. The new guidelines required emissions and noise standards and that all snowmobilers entering the park be accompanied by a professional guide working for one of the park’s accredited concessionaries. Since those regulations went into effect, West Yellowstone and other gateway communities around the park have experienced a dramatic change in winter tourism. That has meant a shift from snowmobiles to snowcoaches as the preferred means of winter travel within the park for many visitors. “I think a lot of the folks that were entering the park on snowmobile were recreational snowmobile users,” Roberson said. “When the National Park Service required a guide, they chose not to go in. Some of those folks are going in on snowcoaches now.” Jude is on of those folks. He’s been visiting Yellowstone for more than 15 years via snowmobile and snowcoach. He said he sees the move to snowcoaches as a positive development for West Yellowstone and the park. “I think they are moving in the right direction,” Jude said. “Rather than focusing on driving, you can concentrate on what’s outside the widow — the wildlife and the scenery — which is what you are here for in the first place. “When you are on a snowmobile, you have to concentrate on the road and driving, plus you are colder and you have to have a snowmobile suit on. The snowcoach is a wonderful way to see the park, because you are comfortable.” A snowcoach is akin to a tour bus, but they are designed to operate over snow and ice. They employ tracks rather than tires allowing them improved traction on the variable conditions found in the park during the winter season. Many snowcoaches used in the park today fit between 10 and 20 passengers and are operated by a driver that also acts as a tour guide. Roberson said that the reason visitors come to Yellowstone has changed little over the years, but that updated park policies and people’s expectations for their experience in the park have changed. “(Park visitors) want to see Yellowstone’s geysers, wildlife and magnificent scenery,” he said on Tuesday. “On the other hand, several major trends have been dramatically changing the face of winter tourism in Yellowstone.” Roberson said that visitors increasingly want more than simple access — they want to learn about what they are seeing and experiencing within the park and to be assured “that the way they are visiting is helping protect fragile resources for other visitors, and for their children and grandchildren.” Guides offer a level of park interpretation unique to the snowcoach experience. As we passed along the Gibbon River, Barth pointed out wolves from the Gibbon Pack, a red fox near Madison Junction and numerous other wildlife species and points of interest. “I think having the guide along is a big benefit,” Jude said. “They can play a fantastic role as your resident naturalist on board.” Near the Brink of the Upper Falls, Barth pulled the snowcoach to the side of the road. The group disembarked for a quick cross-country ski and snowshoe excursion along the river. Dropping through the forest to the falls and crossing over Chittenden Bridge offers a chance to get the blood flowing and to witness the Yellowstone River up close. “In West Yellowstone, more visitors are arriving with skis and snowshoes,” Roberson said. “They’re seeking a different, active park experience.” Roberson believes the uptick in visitors seeking exercise as part of their experience in the park can be seen through the lens of demographics. He said that as the baby boom generation enters their 50s and 60s, exercise has become a quality of life issue. “More of these visitors want to be physically active and interact with the outdoors,” he said. The final trend Roberson said is affecting winter tourism is the changing climate. He said that over the past decade inadequate snowfall has limited snowmobile travel. The park opens for winter travel on Dec. 15, but drier, warmer trends have put a damper on earlyseason entry. Roberson said many visitors to West Yellowstone book their vacations far in advance. Snowcoaches offer an advantage over snowmobiles in that their rubber tracks are able to travel over pavement even when snowfall is light. That offers a degree of assurance for vacationers. Mark Pearson, National Parks program director for Greater Yellowstone Coalition, said West Yellowstone has adapted to change. “I think the move toward snowcoaches is being adopted here in West Yellowstone,” he said. “Our perspective is that snowcoaches are really the future. You can get a lot more people in the park with fewer machines … and they provide for universal accessibility.” According to the park’s Web site, 7,138 visitors entered the park on snowmobiles from West Yellowstone in 2009. In 2010, that figure had dropped to 6,786 visitors. In contrast, snowcoach visitation has risen by 119 over the same period. But regardless of numbers, Roberson said the public’s fascination with Yellowstone is the driving factor for visitation. And that’s unlikely to change. “People are so excited to learn about the park,” he said. “People are here because they love Yellowstone.”
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