Sphinx Mountain’s riddle: Hike in Madison Range turns hairy amid storm clouds
SPHINX MOUNTAIN – Tuesday morning began beautifully in the Madison Mountains. Clear skies and warming temperatures greeted my hiking companion Emerson Lenon and me as we tightened the laces of our boots at the Bear Creek trailhead east of Cameron.
We’d come here to hike to the summit of Sphinx Mountain.
We didn’t make it.
“The Sphinx” – as it’s known locally – is one of the most iconic peaks in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. I’d marveled countless times at this seemingly-impenetrable fortress of rock from the Madison River and the Gallatin Crest. I’d wondered often if it was possible to achieve the 10,876-foot summit without the aid of climbing equipment.
A little research proved the summit was possible without gear. The hike would however demand a nearly 4,500 foot gain in vertical elevation over five miles and a scramble up a gulley on the west couloir to the precarious summit perch – the south face of Sphinx Mountain plummeting 2,000 feet to the Indian Creek drainage below.
We set to hiking just after 10 a.m. Two trails depart from the small parking area at the ranger station. We took the Trail Fork of Bear Creek, Forest Service Trail #326. Our plan was to follow the route, bearing left on Forest Service Trail #325 to the saddle between Sphinx Mountain and its sister peak The Helmet. We’d then follow the gulley route to the summit in time for a late afternoon lunch.
Things started well. The trail up Bear Creek is a pleasant walk through Douglas fir and spruce forest. Our route was easy to follow and not terribly difficult despite the steady gain in elevation. We passed through open meadows ablaze with summer wildflowers – arrowleaf balsamroot, Castilleja and bluebells. A few minor creek crossings and some wet spots along the trail presented the only difficulty.
In short order, we broke out of the timber to a sight that stopped us in our tracks. The Helmet – reminiscent of the blaze-red crest of a Trojan warrior’s headgear – stood directly before us, the rugged cap of Sphinx Mountain to the west. Our route to the saddle was now apparent, skirting the edge of the picture-perfect alpine valley before a final crossing of the creek.
Also apparent were a few wispy clouds looming on the western horizon. Before long a pair of hikers passed us on their descent.
“Be careful,” they warned. “There’s weather coming in.”
Thankful for their genuine concern, but undeterred, we pressed on. The valley gradually tightened until we reached a series of easy switchbacks leading up to the saddle.
The rain started to fall lightly and the sky drew a gray curtain overhead as we approached the monolithic east face of The Helmet. A golden retriever appeared on the slope above, followed by two hikers descending quickly.
Micah Williams and his sister Honey Williams of Livingston almost reached the top of Sphinx Mountain before turning back.
“We were half way up the summit,” Micah said as the rain started to fall in earnest. “I already felt like we were pushing our luck and then we looked back and saw a lightning bolt behind The Helmet. It is frustrating to get so close, but the mountains will always be here.”
Lenon and I decided to ascend the saddle quickly and leave Sphinx Mountain for another day. We worked up the final switchback in the trail and turned west to the base of The Helmet as storm clouds rippled overhead. We took a very brief glimpse into the north bowl between the peaks and then began our descent.
The first crack of thunder shuddered through the cooling mountain air as we dropped down the switchbacks. A torrent of rain water flooded the trail turning the soil into a slick mass that shifted beneath us with every footfall.
Once below the saddle, we took shelter under a stand of Douglas fir. We shared a sandwich and homemade chocolate chip cookies as the rain continued to fall.
“You have got to respect nature,” Lenon said, looking back at a Sphinx now veiled in ominous storm clouds. “Better to get 90 percent there and turn back than die.”
It was hard to argue with that kind of logic.
The hike out became a literal slog as the narrow trail turned to a wash. Lightning flashed in the sky overhead. The accompanying crack of thunder met us almost immediately.
We arrived at the parking area sopping wet and cold, Sphinx Mountain’s mysteries still very much intact.
Related posts:
- Sky high in the Crazy Mountains: Excursion to Cottonwood Lake offers spectacular scenery
- Uncle Tom’s Trail: Hike into Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone a trip through history
- Gallatin grizzlies: New research shows growing number of bruins in mountains north of Yellowstone National Park
About The Author
Loading ...
Comments